 Rabbits
are becoming increasingly popular pets
as urban backyard sizes shrink and more
people live in flats. They are fairly
quiet, quite socially interactive with
their human caretakers, small and
relatively inexpensive to feed making
them suitable for small living areas. |
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Housing
Rabbits can be housed in cages but not be
confined for 24 hours a day. They need to be let
out for periods of time on a daily basis,
preferably supervised, so as they can get
adequate exercise. Cage size should be at least
four times the size of the rabbit - more if it
is confined for long intervals. The cage should
be well ventilated, constructed of materials
resistant to chewing and be easy to clean. Cage
floors should be either slatted plastic or
solid. Wire floors are too harsh on rabbit feed
which have no pads. However, if wire is the only
flooring available then a resting board or rug
should be provided otherwise foot problems can
result.
Indoor
and Outdoor Hazards
Rabbits love to chew just about anything,
therefore rabbit-proofing any areas where the
rabbit will have free access is essential.
Potential hazards include chewing electric cords
(shock), chewing poisonous plants (toxicity),
and chewing synthetic materials like carpet
(bowel blockage). Electric cords need to be
encased in heavy-duty plastic and outlets
covered by furniture to prevent access. Bored
rabbits tend to get destructive of their
surroundings and will target sofas, carpets,
cushions - almost anything. A supply of boxes,
baskets, sticks, magazines, grass mats, toys and
the like will keep your rabbit entertained and
behaved. Predators, especially cats and dogs,
are the biggest outdoor hazard for rabbits -
even if the rabbit is enclosed in its cage.
Supervision and indoor confinement at night
reduces this problem.
Diet
A good rabbit diet consists of good quality
pellets, fresh hay, water and fresh vegetables,
especially leafy greens. Treats like fruit can
be given but should be limited (no more than 28
grams per 2.73kg bodyweight of rabbit per day) -
high fibre fruits such as pears, apples, peaches
and pineapple can be given in small quantities.
Avoid bananas and grapes as they can become
addictive. Pellets should have a minimum of 18%
fibre. Pellets (there are various brands) can be
purchased at outlets such as pet shops. Do not
buy more than 6 weeks supply at a time otherwise
they spoil. As the rabbit gets older, the amount
of pellets offered should be decreased whilst
the quantity of vegetables should increase. Hay
is essential and should be available 24 hours a
day. Hay provides roughage which decreases the
risk of hairballs and other blockages in the
rabbit. Vegetables should be diverse and can
range from dark, leafy types to root vegetables.
Beans and rhubarb are best avoided. Obesity is a
common problem in rabbits usually resulting from
too much food and too little exercise.
Over-eating can become a habit in bored rabbits.
Roughage and green foods are essential in a
rabbit's diet to ensure adequate teeth wear and
bowel function. Fresh clean water should be
available at all times.
Training
Rabbits can be litter-trained at any age, even
older rabbits. Litter training is even easier in
desexed rabbits because the hormones responsible
for territorial marking are absent. Most rabbits
will choose to eliminate in one or a few spots
(usually corners), so at least one litter-box
should be provided in its cage and a few in its
surrounds. By placing the litter box in areas
the rabbit naturally uses, there will be an
increased chance of success. If the rabbit
eliminates anywhere else in the cage except in
its litter box then the litter box must be moved
to this other spot. Treats (such as veggies) can
be used as rewards in training.
Vaccinations
Rabbits are susceptible to a number of
potentially fatal diseases. One of these, rabbit
calcivirus disease or haemorrhagic viral
disease, can be prevented by vaccination.
Calcivirus in rabbits causes symptoms of
inappetance and depression and rapidly leads to
death from heart and lung failure. They die
quietly, with few signs of distress, within 30
hours of becoming infected. Nearly 100% of
infected rabbits will die, therefore vaccination
is the main preventative for the disease. The
first vaccination is given at 10 weeks of age or
older, followed by yearly boosters. To reduce
potential exposure to calcivirus and other viral
diseases of rabbits such as myxomatosis, it is
recommended to avoid direct and indirect contact
with wild rabbits, house rabbits in insect-proof
cages, quarantine any new rabbits for a week
before introducing them to the existing rabbit
population and maintain a hygienic environment.
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